Western Europe Route

The Start of my Trip

England, a very brief visit to France then through Belgium into Holland for a blink and you will miss it moment. (I love Schengen but if you take small roads sometimes you don’t even realise you have entered and exited a country, Holland was a great example). Onto Germany, into Austria, then Italy before diving back into Austria Briefly….

The benefits of having a Mate who is passionate and has great Knowledge of the Alps/Dolomites and Italy in particular was always going to Guarantee an epic and ccccold ride through these awesome Mountains. Well worth a ride! Great Work Mate! Thanks for the Hangovers and company. Its possible he was sent just to be sure I would leave Western Europe as promised!

Day 13 Chasing Rainbows in the Happy Valley

http://www.strava.com/activities/129524013

Ladin is a very Old dialect that a Local told me is made up of German, Italian & Latin?   The reason I mention this is because I was also advised in Innsbruck, that the people of the Val Pusteria who use the Language can be a little on the unfriendly side.  By this point I have managed to conjure up images of all sorts of bad stuff that’s going to happen to us.  So far we had an amazing Pizza, of course its amazing, we are in Italy, and the staff were just brilliant.  The Pension owners have also been super Friendly and I swear that the people in the streets are actually looking out for people to wave and smile with.

If you did not know you were in Italy (and that’s quite easy in borderless Europe), you could easily still believe you are in Austria because the language spoken is mostly German (that’s what I’m hearing anyway) most signage is German, although a lot of road signs are in German & Italian.

The thing that’s gives it away that you are in Italy is the super cool, stylish look of all the people who fill the streets of Bruneck, these people really have got a Kind of aloof coolness about them, which so suits my image of Italy. Its not that I think they are probably anything other than really nice, we just did not take the time to stop and find out.

The cycle path does not go through the Valley but rather around the edge of it, this does mean some pretty short sharp inclines for a bit of Bike Pushing and a few dubious surfaces for Martin on his skinny tyres, but it also means the view across and down to the bottom of the valley is just that little bit more spectacular.  There is still some snow on the peaks, some runs (you’ll see one in the top of this picture) are

still open and in fact blocking the route…..

 

The Dolomites are a really special part of the Alps with its own unique kind of look, the effects of the weather on the Limestone makes for a unique experience. The Val Pusteria has a reputation for being the Coldest in Italy and  I’ve also heard that despite some of the Alps on the “German End” having had disappointing snowfall, this is the Business end that has experienced really REALLY big snow.  On the way to what we hear is the big stuff is plenty of this. Beautiful Dolomites, love the Dolomites LOTS

The Lesachtal valley is a little of the beaten track, its got a nice little climb for some tired legs to tackle, we are starting to see some signs of the heavy snowfall, so of course what you need are some great people to meet to give you a little boost up the climb…

Its a you have to be there moment of course, but The Pope as he is known locally (I thought George Bush Snr) Dani and JB are really as nice as they look, Dani’s Mums home made Super Cake and coffee, great company and some good tips about the climb really set us up….  Its a long hairpin type grind, half way up the heavens open and its a good opportunity to connect with God ( we are high enough) and take shelter in this (one of very very many) small Churches, religious I am not but what a beauty….

Of course being in touch with our Religious side now means we get our very own special sign from above….. This rainbow just hops and leads us up the climb….. All the way to this….

Until two weeks ago, this community was cut off completely with 4 metres of Snow, you’ll see loads left hanging around, what a Valley, its a really remote location, its just the best valley yet, the road winds around the edge, just inches away fom a huge barrierless drop,is really battered from the winter blast, is almost single file in most places, its just so recommended…….. I love it here, words won’t describe it.

The final descent is just beautiful and full of hairpins that descend and climb, Martin is on the Black Flash, triple Kudos, finally with the light fading we roll into our B&B and with the Beers and Grappa flowing…….. Good Night!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 12 Riding with me Mate

http://www.strava.com/activities/129178360

My Warm Shower Host has a flat that looks over Innsbruck Airport (this is where Martin will arrive today and join me for 4 days), if your like me and remain fascinated by flying stuff, this is good. If I am honest, the view of Innsbruck is great, but nothing really to write home about.  Until This……..

Now I get it, this is just as we leave town and head out too pick up the Brenner Pass, I’m not really sure what or why I would know this pass, but something tells me its going to be memorable….

I have agreed to meet Martin under the Golden Roof (legend has it that any Woman that gazes upon the Roof shall remain forever young in their lovers eyes….) its a bit of a local Landmark, its pretty special and so is the old part of Town.  What was not so pretty from above is well worth a visit….. Not a cloud in the sky helps!!

What I have learnt about ‘important’ roads in Europe is that they are not allowed to be over a certain “steepness”, I reckon this means that although its going to make the journey a little longer, its just going to be a case of selecting my lowest gear and spinning!! Perfect, its a really warm day, probably close to 20c at the bottom.  I guess its a matter of opinion, but in my eyes the Autostrada which crosses back and forward over the valley is a pretty amazing feat of Engineering and also is something that has to be seen.

I have accepted (and rather liked) the fact that for the next four days,  firstly all I have to do is follow a fella who is absolutely mad about this part of Northern Italy and Austria and is going to be eating Nice food and expecting more than Canvas over his head at night. If you have not tried Austrian food, know this , the portions are Jason size (massive) and probably best compared to English comfort food, flippin Brilliant. Here is a 7 Euro Weiner Schnitzel, cooked beautifully by the side of the Road.

Of course there has to be a reason for the Brenner Pass, its this,  Italiano Coffee, well earned after a good old grind (and to be honest a bit of a push for the last Kilometre….)   See the faces…. Smell the Coffee.

Its funny you know, we are in Italy but everyone speaks German……  Coffee still tastes proper Italian though…  Just the sort of preparation for a nice big descent into the Italian side of the Brenner Pass, but even the best of descents has to be stopped for great people coming the other way, and here they are, Werner 64 and his Son Fabian are just heading back to Innsbruck after a ‘small’ loop over the Malojapass, past lake Como and back up the Brenner Pass….. To be fair Fabian has most of the gear, but triple Kudos to Werner, they is BIG Hills, he’s no youngster but is still out and about………..

Austria has given me some most amazing and memorable moments in the Snow and over a few Hills, something I will always remember. The Tyroleans are really nice people, and the Valley down to Innsbruck has unforgettable food for the eyes and its really easy to just follow the superbly signposted cycle paths, its all very much like Germany in this respect.  I have found this out, Austrians may come across as a little ‘rude’ sometimes, not always ready with a smile and a wave, but that’s the ‘reserved nature’ of these people, stop and chat and they are just great.  Its an immaculate and well oiled nation.

The Northern part of Italy is well, just a little more relaxed in how people react to you and in the way it looks, maybe a little tired, but I love that charm and its more amazing eye food (the countryside).

We take a left into the Val Pusteria which is the start of the Dolomites and its own unique style…  The Large climb anticipated does not appear and its time to put Martin on the Black Flash, its great to see all my gear being pulled by someone and although he does his best not to show the pain, I can see it and (as mates should be) am extremely pleased to witness this.

An amazing 20 Euro Pension finishes the day, chuffed to be here… Bella Italiano….